Adobe Camera RAW 16 New Features in Photoshop 2024
Video Title: Adobe Camera RAW 16 New Features in Photoshop 2024
Let’s have a look at the top features in Adobe Camera Raw 16, which is part of Photoshop 2024. So the new version is Camera Raw 16, which is found inside of Photoshop 2024. If you try to open the images or filter from Photoshop, some of the options won’t show
Including the output and crops. So if you want to where those went, this is why. So what we want to do is we want to open these from Bridge, and then we’re going to right-click, and then we’re going to choose Open in camera raw.
Now this will launch camera raw with all the features, including the crop and the output, which we will need for some of these new features. These new features are also inside of Lightroom, and I’ve done another video on it.
But if you’ve watched that video, these are going to be brand new examples, and we’ll look at different aspects. So if we go into the Column mixer, we’ll see Point Color. Point Color is a great way for us to target specific colors and enhance them.
So we’re going to grab the eye droper tool, and then we’re going to roll over. And why don’t we add a little bit to this golden light we’ve got here in the sky and also in the foreground. This is in Kauai, Hawaii. And I’m just going to click here.
Now there’s two parts to this, refinement and enhancement. Refinement enables us to decide which are the colors that are going to be affected. So why don’t we start with that? So we’re going to go under the Range here.
And if you don’t see the additional options, just hit this little triangle will open up the other tools. Now if I hold down the Alt or the option key, it will make the rest of the image black and white.
Notice as I go to the left, it defines it to a very narrow region. As I move it across, it expands it. And we definitely want to expand it because we want to include the colors here in the water.
You can also go beyond just the range and you can refine it based on hue, saturation and luminance. So hue is the actual color. So I’m going to change that hue range to just tighten it up a little bit.
The saturation will select it based on saturations, and then luminance will select it based on lightness or darkness. Now you can refine it by grabbing these outside and notice how you can grow or contract that. Now the dot won’t change because the dot is the actual color that is being sample, so
You can’t change that. But you can refine how much of the area around it gets selected. So now we get to adjust the hue saturation or luminance. So if we want to increase the saturation to make these colors more vibrant, we can do that.
Let’s go a little too far just for now so we can see the effect we’re having on the image. And if we choose the luminance, this will determine how bright we want it. And I’m actually going to brighten that up a little bit. And the hue will enable us to change it.
So if we want to go more into an orange or more into a yellow, we can do that as well. So let’s get that looking quite nice. We can also go in and make slight adjustments to the rest of the image to match.
And at this point, I’m going to just roll back on the saturation a little bit. You can see the ones that have been edited because of the eyeball. Let’s pull that saturation back just a little bit.
And when I look at this, I see the rising sun starting to break through and some of these colors appearing in the sky much more closely resembling what I saw when I took this photograph before, after. And if you’re getting any value out of this video, hit that subscribe button, turn on notifications.
You won’t miss any of my videos. The second new tool I want to talk about is the lens blur. So I did a photo session with Brooke. We were shooting against a white seamless. But what if you have a photograph like this and you’ve got a really clouded background?
So we go down to lens blur. Now this is an early access, meaning Adobe is still developing it so it could change. Let’s open the lens blur. And the first thing we want to do is we want to apply. We and you see it gives us an initial blur.
If we hit this little eyeball, we can see before and after. That sure is a big improvement already. But let’s take it a little bit further. What I’m going to do is I’m going to push the blur amount all the way to the extreme,
And this makes it very easy to see what’s happening, and then we’ll adjust it to a more pleasing amount afterwards. So let’s scroll down. We’re going to open up refine. Now if we want, we could change where this focus is. Right now it’s on the model.
If I drag this handle and move it back, notice it moves towards the background, and now the background is in focus. What this is doing is it’s using a depth map. It’s creating one on AI. However, had I used a photo from a mobile phone that already had a depth map like portrait
Mode on the iPhone or the Google pixel, it would use that death map instead. All right, so obviously we want to go to the foreground. So if I move this all the way in there, it makes a very shallow, different field, such as using a 1.4, 1.8 prime lens.
Notice that it can be very, very fine, and we can get the focus on her nose say, for example. And if we use this target tool, you can click the area you want to put in focus. This will reset that.
But we can just drag it in again, knowing that the nose is the area that’s in focus. If I expand this, notice how more of the photo will become in focus now. Now we don’t want to make it that deep. We want to get more of a shallow effect.
So let’s drag this in. And what I’m doing is I’m looking right for the edge of the hair. So what we want to do now is refine this. So we’re going to choose visual depth, and then you’ll see the tones.
The lighter tones are closer to the camera, the darker tones are further away. This is a perfect place to go to refine it. I can already see some problems. See these tones around here? Those aren’t correct, and neither are the ones around the arm. So we’re going to click Open the refine.
And if we want to make some of the areas on the model sharper and fix those, we would choose focus and paint on those. It doesn’t look too bad. There’s a little bit on the hair there that maybe we can fix.
But at the moment, it looks like most of the problem is on the background. So we’re going to choose blur. Turn on mask so it detects the edges. Left bracket key will make that brush smaller, right bracket key will make it bigger. I also want to select those areas in here.
Now you might not see a lot of difference happening at the moment. These areas are selected, but what I need to do is make them match the background. I need that magenta color to be the same purple as the background. And we can do it by changing blur amount.
Notice as I move it to the right, it darkens it until it matches. It’s as simple as that. And in any areas that we forgot, we’re just going to grab our blur here and just paint. And notice that we can paint those into the background.
Notice now we can clearly see what’s going on. All right, let’s turn off Visualize depth, and you can see these look a lot better. These edges are looking pretty good now. Before we set the blur amount to a believable level, let’s look at one more and that’s the Bocca.
The Bocca changes the way that blur happens, and that’s based on different types of lenses. Now watch what happens as I choose the different options. Now, if you want to go more to a vintage lens, we use a five blade here.
And if we want something that’s like a single lens reflex, we can click here, which would be what you would get on a film camera. And then we can do a cat eye. And now let’s take that blur amount to a more reasonable level.
So the next feature I want to talk about is a much bigger feature than people realize. So it’s been some huge paradigm shifts. The first one is when televisions and monitors went to HD, not only was the picture bigger and sharper, but also the blacks were deeper and the lights were brighter.
But then we moved on to the next big paradigm, which was 4K. The resolution increased one more time. Of course, the resolutions on cameras may be a little different than we would see in video, but the progress has been the same.
So we’ve been getting sharper images with higher resolution, deeper blacks, and more detail and highlights. Right now, we are actually in the process of the next big paradigm shift, and that is HDR. Now, I’m not talking about the HDR we did a few years ago when some people thought it is an effect.
I’m talking about dynamic range. This is something I predicted was talking about 10 plus years ago. It’s happening now where HDR is a reality. So HDR gives us the capability to see more colors and detail in the highlights and also
To give us rich and deep blacks, closer to what you would see in reality. Modern phones are all now supporting HDR, iPads are supporting HDR, the new laptops, and a lot of the newer monitors now are supporting HDR.
But we haven’t been able to output our photographs to take advantage of this new technology inside of camera raw and Lightroom until now. Go to your control panel in Windows or Mac and turn on high dynamic range if your monitor supports it. But in the future, all monitors are going to support HDR.
Even if you don’t have an HDR monitor, you can still output HDR. I’m just showing you how we can do it here. This is a photograph that I shot on the Google pixel seven pro. So this is an HDR image.
Now, what you want to do is go up under the Edit, you’ll see HDR. So if you look at this on the left is SDR on the right is HDR. If you output a typical JPEG, everything will be cropped down to this SDR and you’ll lose all this information.
All this information here can be viewed on an HDR capable monitor. All right, so if we go down the bottom, we can choose to visualize HDR. And then when we visualize HDR, this is showing us some of these areas that are outside the viewable area on a JPEG or an older monitor.
And HDR stands for high dynamic range. We can change the settings here for this. But if you want to see what it looks like on an SDR display, click on here. And an SDR is a non-HDR display. So we can adjust it for a better display on an SDR monitor.
Let’s turn that off. And this is what it’s going to look like on HDR. This is what it’s going to look like in SDR. But now you can output this image and save it so that you can view the extended dynamic range on any compatible or device or monitor.
What we do is just choose the Export button. This is the Save options. So what we need to do is choose a format that’s compatible, and that’s a JPEG Excel. And now we can turn on HDR output. Notice it changes that color space to a REC 2020.
I’d be more likely to choose the P3 because that’s more compatible with monitors and a lot of mobile devices such as iPads, iPhones, etc. And then at that point, you would just choose the size and then hit Save.
And now you’re able to save an image, which is going to retain all that HDR information, and it’s going to show the HDR on a compatible device. So I’m curious, if you learned anything new, let me know in the comments underneath.
And if you want to know more about these new features, check out my Lightroom tutorials because the Develop module in Lightroom works exactly the same as Camera Roar. And if you’re new, welcome to the cafe. Hit the Subscribe button, turn on notifications and you won’t miss any of my tutorials.
Until next time, I’ll see you at the cafe.
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You’re supposed to put the eyes in focus not the nose! 😂🤣💀
How to view HDR photo? What software supports it?
The Pansonic lumix S1 range of camera have been able to take HDR photos for several years now. It's the HSP format in HLG mode. Adobe PS recently added a plugin so you can edit and view them (albeit in SDR). To view them in HDR you have to connect the camera direct to the HDR capable TV/monitor. Mine is a 65" OLED TV 10bit and they look stunning (NO 8BIT BANDING!)
I also spoke about this several years ago when HDR TVs came on the market. It's about time photos caught up with 10/12 bit HDR video. 8 Bit jpegs look so dated these days and about time 10bit HDR photos were the standard..or at least an option, much like on You Tube where you can view any video format there is yet for photos the web still only use 8bit formats
But……. I don't want to use Bridge.
Awesome tutorial. I have a question. saving as an HDR at the 11:30 mark. How much larger is the file size if you do save as an HDR? Thank you for all the great info!!!
Hi Colin, perfect explanation, but my question is about the HDR setting in your display used. When I calibrate my display does the HDR setting influence my calibration and do I have a different comparison to my print then?
Curious why jpeg xl was the choice for hdr output? Seems like that format is far less adopted at this point and avif is the leading choice for hdr output to be compatible across the most devices.
I have played with all these new features except HDR since I do not have a monitor that supports it but seeing your excellent, as always, overview, processed an image to be views on my phone and the difference was dramatic. More items added to the Christmas wish list, a modern monitor.
Adobe has been making itself indispensable to photographers. Those with the low cost photographers bundle might not remember the old days when a new version require buying a whole new version so everyone seemed to be on a different version which would be a support nightmare.
I shot a corporate Halloween party last weekend and had several hundred files to process and some of the nearer additions such as subject selection and background detection was used to apply to all the photos after the first one, to isolate the subject from the background in each photos allowed me to process one and have all the others detected and the changes applied to each file saved me hours of routine work. That allowed my to spend my time on another computer processing a fine art session. I am not sure why anyone would not have the photographers bundle as the best return on investment of all my tools.
By the way, your simple direct easy to understand feature demos are the best and most effective of all the Adobe channels on YouTube.
I like Camera RAW more than Lightroom. I wish there was a launch button for it in the cloud control panel
The point colour is a great tool and I’ve had quite a bit of success using it to isolate tan lines and blend them in to the surrounding skin. However, if you add a preset, or even convert to B&W via the tools panel afterwards, the colour fix seems to drop off and disappear, even though the mask is still there. The only workaround I’ve found for this process so far is to export to PS, and then save it back in to LR where its now a ‘flat file’ and you can add presets and conversions from there. Hopefully this will be fixed in an update.
I think the HDR feature deserves its own stand alone video RECORDED and PRESENTED in HDR on YouTube so that people can really see the difference. We finally have an HDR end to end workflow. More people need to really see how big a difference it makes your photos on a HDR display.
Waiting for Adobe to address the limited hue range you can change color too in the Point Color selector. Eg if you have a red object and want to make it blue, the hue range is limited. It stops and either purple or pink but you cannot shift the hues to an opposite color.